SUNRISE OVER THE GRAND TETONS--RAFTING ON THE SNAKE RIVER--WHAT A DAY!

Rafting on the Snake River

Tauck Tours really knows how to arrange a grand finale, and that’s exactly what happened.  We stayed in the Jackson Lake Lodge in a beautiful room looking out over the flats to the Tetons.  The view was inspiring and magnificent.  We’d heard, however, that there is nothing compared to watching the sun come up.

I’m not a sunrise person.  But what choice did I have? This was my one chance, and I was not going to blow it!  We stood on the deck at the back of the hotel, coffee in hand, quietly waiting.

The sun, rising from the east, is behind us, not behind the Tetons which we face.  We cannot see the sun.  As it rises, it slowly sends its rays toward the mountains in front of us, gradually, hitting the peaks first, spreading downward, crossing the valley and eventually to where we stand, a slow, beautiful turning of the earth to coral and pink and then lighting the awakening world. 

At the beginning there is just the sun's pink coloring behind the mountains

As the sun ascends, the mountains capture the pinks and corals of day, and the light
spreads across the dark valley bringing color to it as well.

I’ve never seen anything so magnificent.  The experience makes us feel very happy to be up and alive and able to enjoy the glorious morning.

Not to be outdone, the Snake River offered up its view of the Tetons as we went rafting later the same morning.  Our guide told us stories, pointed out the importance of sights along the river, and answered a myriad of questions as we all tried to get answers before leaving for home.

 

Magnificent!

Notice how those same peaks are always with us.  Just glorious.

The afternoon was ours to enjoy independently, and Rob and I took the Lunch Tree Hill Loop Trail beginning behind the Jackson Lake Lodge and rising up to a ridge overlooking the valley. 

The top became a favorite of John D. Rockefeller, Jr. who visited it in 1926.  The view is splendid.  The site serene

We're actually on a hilltop, high above the Lodge.  Magnificent.
Don't see views like this one in the East.

Interesting history.  Can you imagine being out here as a trapper?

Here's another view from the top of the trail.
You can see the roof of the Lodge off to the left.

That evening we had a farewell dinner for our small group, and we sang “Happy Trails to You” to our friends from Great Britain.  You remember the one who, as a boy, went to the Roy Rogers Riding Club every Saturday morning to watch the TV show.  It was a beautiful ending to this trip.

I add that we’ve booked another Tauck Tour—The Canadian Rockies and Glacier National Park. 

FROM CODY, WY. TO YELLOWSTONE AND THE SIGHTS IN BETWEEN. SUPER!

Leaving Cody, Wyoming we are treated to another eye-full drive.  We roll along part of the 146 mile shoreline of the reservoir formed by the Buffalo Bill Dam.  Like spider threads thrown off the water are irrigation canals for agriculture.  It makes the area bloom.

We don’t leave Buffalo Bill behind easily.  We make a stop at Pahaska Tepee, Cody’s hunting lodge, and it’s beautiful.  It’s the original building and so are many of the furnishings.  This is no rustic cabin. In the 1920s in one of the eight bedrooms upstairs, the Prince of Monaco slept.  I’m glad we didn’t miss this.  It's such a reflection of the man who built it.

This is the main room of Pahaska Tepee, Buffalo Bill Cody's hunting lodge. 
It's very comfortable with leather chairs and a huge, stone fireplace.
I got a kick out of the fact that Bill's own portrait hangs above the fireplace.
No visiting upstairs because of the wood stairs that they say is a safety risk, but the back room is a long dining room, almost like a banquet room.

Along the road to Yellowstone National Park is the strangest structure, The Pagoda.

This is known as The Pagoda.
It was started as a "weekend project" in the 1950s
and for one reason of another, the builder gave up at this stage.
Here is stands for all this length of time.

As we drive through the valley, we see Nature's sculpting ability
in the formations rising high above us.
Do you see the bear, the lion, and the blacksmith?
What else do you see?

The land is so beautiful.  In the far distance, the mountains don’t look real; they appear as a painted landscape.  There is an other worldly aspect to their beauty, and we are anxious to reach them as we drive through the Shoshone National Forest.

Beautiful, isn't it?
It's so rugged, and it looks like a painting as we speed past.

Our destination is Yellowstone National Park, a place with more geysers than New Zealand or Iceland, countries known for their geysers.  The Yellowstone we visit was formed by a series of volcanic eruptions so huge that the central part of the park is actually a 35 by 45 mile caldera.  If you have ever been to Volcano National Park in Hawaii and flown above to see the caldera of Kilauea or have climbed to the caldera of Diamondhead, you will literally suck in your breath when you think of the eruption that produced Yellowstone.

The geysers, mud volcanoes, fumaroles, hot springs and other thermal phenomena are caused by the still-active magmatic forces bubbling just below the surface.  You are above seismic activity.  If it should blow….

Just one of the many thermal wonders spouting the steam created
by the activity below the earth's surface.
Makes you really wonder about the earth on which we stand.

These thermal wonders as well as the magnificent wildlife, the beautiful trees and rugged mountains are what we see during our three days in Yellowstone National Park, and our excitement is practically palpable.

Actually, traffic moved pretty well along the park roads, one reason that we looked for a late season visit there, but one occurrence consistently stopped everyone dead in their tracks—the appearance of wildlife.  Here you can see what constantly happens when bison decide to cross the road!!!!  I don’t believe anyone minds however; the thrill of seeing them never fades.

Bison are incredible.
But it really isn't wise to get too close.
People really do get hurt.

All the traffic in the world doesn’t matter when you take the time to explore Yellowstone.

The gorge that is the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone is magnificent: the layered rock strata of blacks and browns dotted here and there with tenacious pine and worn away by the constant forces of rushing water cascading down the crevice creating rising mists at the base before it hits another drop and becomes a waterfall again. The sound of the roaring water does not lessen the beauty of the browns, blacks, greens and whites against a blue sky.  It is spell-binding.

The Grand Canyon of Yellowstone
Spellbinding
Please follow the link in blue for a description of how this incredible canyon was formed.

This is only the beginning.  On to some of the great thermal sights in the park.  One thing to keep constantly in mind are the warnings about nature’s display.  It’s dangerous and tricky.

Other signs gave some of the numbers of people injured and burned.
Sometimes people are so strange.  We saw teenagers testing with their feet, and we saw, in another area, adults letting their children romp off the designated paths.
Wonders never cease.

We began touring the mud volcanoes, highly acidic and accompanied by pungent sulfuric odors.  The path is a boardwalk, and the different mud volcanoes bubble and spurt steam and gasses, rumbling at you as you walk by.  There’s nothing inviting here, but you cannot resist a fascination with the bubbly mud and the steam emanating and rising into the sky.

It's impossible to forget what is going on under your feet.
I wonder what possesses people to test the acidity and to disregard the warnings on the signs.
This is an incredible walk, and I wonder what happened to people prior to the boardwalk.

Mud volcanoes change.  In 1870, explorers were amazed at a volcano spewing steam and mud into the treetops and shaking the ground; two years later, the volcano had blown itself apart and became the muddy, bubbling sight that greeted us.  Some mud volcanoes, on the other hand, appear overnight. 

Some areas are quite beautiful, but we soon learned that the colors are caused, for the most part, by bacteria.  That sort of takes the edge off, so we just shake our heads in amazement at nature’s artistry.

Steam and boardwalks and vibrant colors.
It's almost difficult to believe that this is how it has "always" been.
It's also hard to believe that the vivid colors are caused by bacteria.

I’m glad we stayed in at the Yellowstone Lake Hotel in the park because as the clock gets closer to dinner time, there is a mass exodus of park visitors. Those are the real lines of traffic.  Hotels outside the park are quite a distance.  But there are other reasons that this hotel is so exciting. 

The beautiful Yellowstone Lake Hotel.
Travelers rode two days into the park to reach this hotel.
It is simple and grand at the same time.
Its atmosphere reflects the calm beauty of its enviornment.

It is 175 years old, and yes, it has been remodeled, the last time in 2014.  As a member of Historic Hotels of America, it is not allowed to install wifi although wired internet is in each room.  Nor are there televisions.  Board games are available if one desires, and there is a real attempt to preserve the atmosphere as it once was.  The original 300 rooms are now shrunk to 157 as bathrooms (thank goodness) ate up a great deal of space, so the Yellowstone Lake Hotel has a glamour of its own that makes a stay here utterly charming.

We walked down to the gorgeous lake and just reveled in its beauty.

Quiet and peaceful.
There is an overwhelming sense of calm down by the lake where some people sit, some stand, but all stare, overcome with awe.

Another magnificent day.  Awaiting to see what is in store tomorrow.

1899 WRIGHT INN AND CARRIAGE HOUSE--PART OF WONDERFUL ASHEVILLE, NC

I had to use this picture of our bathroom in the Powell Suite.
I loved it and everything about this Inn.
Isn't it charming???  And romantic???

There is no shortage of hotels in Asheville, North Carolina, but if you’re looking for a taste of the historic Asheville atmosphere, you’ll look elsewhere than the big, impersonal hotels.  If you want the comforts of a fine bed and a breakfast served in courses, and an historic Victorian home modernized to give you today’s conveniences without sacrificing the charm of yesterday, you might look to the 1899 Wright Inn and Carriage House, in the Montford district less than a mile from downtown, because there you’ll find an Inn that will give you a comfortable respite from the touring and excitement that you’ll also find in Asheville. 

A welcome in our room to sweeten up our stay

Picture a grand, old Victorian with its wide front porch where you can sit in the shade, perhaps just enjoying the foliage of the tree-lined street and viewing the people walking just beyond the front walk.  Or you may settle yourself comfortably in one of the Queen Anne-furnitture-decorated parlors, fire place glowing in season, and help yourself to a piece of candy waiting for you in a crystal dish.

That is what awaits you at the 1899 Wright Inn and Carriage House.  Your room or suite seems to transport you to another era, some with fireplaces, some with loveseats and tables protected by doilies.  There is a coziness and comfort that makes you smile as you enjoy everything from your bed to your bath.  Rest assured, however, that central air-conditioning ensures your comfort in the warmer seasons.  Wifi is in every room. This is today’s North Carolina, after all.

The 1899 Wright Inn and Carriage House is like stepping back into history, a hidden gem.  Guests are immediately enveloped by a graciousness that warms the entire atmosphere, and you are immediately made to feel at home and part of a family. 

Each room is special, modernized in convenience without losing the elegance of the past.  Breakfast is different each morning but always includes coffee/tea, juice, breakfast breads, and a main course, often rather elegant and all served on lovely china.  The long table, flowers, and other decorations, encourage conversation with other guests, and breakfast becomes an event in itself. 

As comfortable as can be!

We stayed in the Powell Suite, and at breakfast we met a couple from Texas as well as a couple from Canada, excited tourists just like ourselves.  Our host and superb breakfast chef, Tom, was exceptionally helpful in suggesting places in Asheville he felt we’d like to visit.  If you browse the Inn's website, you’ll find many suggestions as well as some money-saving ideas.

Simply charming!

Through the Inn, for instance, you can purchase a 2-day pass to the Biltmore Estate for the price of one day.  You can also pick up the trolley for the Asheville Trolley Tour right at the front door, so leave your car parked in one of the spots on the side of the Inn.  They’ve listed restaurants, other tours, and some of the special touches to make your stay in Asheville even more exceptional. 

We couldn’t ask for more. 

The 1899 Wright Inn and Carriage House is located at 235 Pearson Drive, Asheville, NC 28801.

FRIDAY'S FOTO--SENTIMENTAL JOURNEY

Here I am in the courtyard of Doris Day's beautiful Cypress Inn
in Carmel-by-the-Sea, California.  Beautiful boutique hotel.

THE QUEEN MARY--WHAT A TRIP!

One of the magnificent lobbies on the Queen Mary

Expect surprises when you travel, and you will not be disappointed.  Rob and I booked a room aboard the Queen Mary in Long Beach, California for a one night stay just to see what there is to see on an antique luxury liner no longer at sea.  What a good surprise in many ways. 

Let me get the negative off first because the positives totally outweigh it.  Our room was not nice at all.  It was not even particularly clean, and the TV remote was missing.  Despite calls to the desk and promises from them, a replacement never arrived.  It’s true I booked an inside cabin because we were arriving from New York after dark and had plans for the next day; I saw no reason to spring for more expensive fare.  But that’s no excuse.  And, to be perfectly clear, we politely registered our complaints as we checked out.  Without requesting any compensation, the clerk apologized, spoke to someone, and then deducted a sizeable percentage of our bill.  They did the best they could to make things right, and I hope they also had a talk with the housekeeping staff.

Now for the surprises! 

Age has its beauty.  She's a graceful ship.

This is a magnificent ship with a stellar history.  At night it looks like something out of a movie, and indeed that is exactly how I felt.  The ship is festooned with lights, and the smokestacks are regally tilted back as reminders that they sent their smoke behind them.  The stewards are dressed in uniform, and around the ship there are pictures of and engravings of  Queen Mary, England's monarch at the time.

This ship was not originally going to be named the Queen Mary, but the builders had to have the royal permission to name is after Queen Victoria.  When the King was asked, "May we name it after our most beloved Queen?" the King replied that his wife, Queen Mary, would LOVE to have the ship named after her.  Would you have the nerve to say, "No, I meant Queen Victoria?" Hence, the new luxury liner was christened The Queen Mary.

We arrived while  a winter program, CHILL, was in progress with ice skating and other winter events going on in the midst of warm California.  We didn’t participate, but we did enjoy the beautiful sight.

The view from the deck down to CHILL with its lights, ice skating,
and winter activities in the middle of Long Beach.

We also arrived just as a Steam Punk Symposium was getting underway, and no, we had no clue what that was about, so let me define by way of that nefarious source, Wikipedia:

 Steampunk is a sub-genre of science fiction that typically features steam-powered machinery especially in a setting inspired by industrialized Western civilization during the 19^th century.  Steampunk works are often set in an alternative history of the 19^th century’s British Victorian era or American “Wild West,” in a post-apocalyptic future during which steam power has regained mainstream use, or in a fantasy world that similarly employs steam power.

Everyone was in a party mood, and this man carried his invention.

The Symposium participants were a delight.  They arrived, some entire families in costume, carried steam inventions, and had their own Steampunk Boutique in one of the ballrooms—a fascinating place where we were definitely conspicuous.  They definitely wanted to be photographed.

Why book the Queen Mary for this Steampunk gathering?  She is post-Victorian, so post their interest time period.  It’s as close as they could get in time.  For us, it was perfect!

One of the complaints I read on Trip Advisor is that staying aboard the Queen Mary was like spending a night in a museum.  How great is that!!!!!  That's precisely why I wanted to stay there.

In the evening we dined aboard the Queen in The Chelsea Chowder House and Bar.  We had very lovely, ice cold oysters, and looked out over the water at Los Angeles’ sights.  Rob’s seafood platter and my calamari were just right, and if the linens were not first class, it didn’t matter at all; the service was good, and we were aboard one of the world’s greatest ships.

Walking around the ship after dinner was delightful.  Occasionally we’d see the Steampunk folk strolling the teak deck as well.  The walls inside and out were covered with poster-sized photographs of the rich and famous who sailed on this ship--clearly the world’s most exciting ocean liner in its day boasting five dining areas, two cocktail bars and swimming pools, and even a small hospital.  She was also, for 14 years, the fastest transatlantic steamer as she outraced her sister ships across the Atlantic Ocean.  Civilized and luxurious, she carried Bob Hope, Loretta Young, Clark Gable, and the Duke and Duchess of Windsor.  Queen Elizabeth sailed on her—the current Queen Elizabeth’s mother!

In the morning we breakfasted in the Promenade Café amid many Steampunkers dressed for their Symposium.  It was a grand way to begin the day.  On the walls here were photos of the kitchen as it ran during the ship’s heyday, and that put us in the mood to take the self-guided audio tour which came as part of the hotel package.  We expected to skim through and be gone in an hour or so; we stayed for more than three amazing hours learning about this grand piece of history.

This wasn't the only complex panel we saw, but only one part of it,
that piece at the bottom, seemed familiar.  The number of gauges and
controls was staggering.

This photo captures a mere sliver of the engine room.  It is enormous.  We
spent a lot of time reading the information down here and being dazzled by
the power and complexity of it all.

Movies of ships' bowels and engines simply do not do justice to the size and power of these mammoth vessels.  The Queen Mary spent the WWII years chauffeuring American and Canadian soldiers to the front.  Its speed was appreciated.  Returning to passenger service after the war, it saw the beginning of a different kind of trans-Atlantic voyage--by air. They attempted retro-fitting her with stabilizers to make the voyage less "rocky," but that proved less than successful. Eventually she ended here in Long Beach, California.  Take a look at some of these pictures taken on our tour.  There is also an impressive timeline that traces a thoroughly captivating history.

Just to give you a view at an original anchor.  Compare that with the height of Rob!

If you are in California in the LA area, this is definitely worth a day trip! We won't see her likes again.

STROLLING ARUBA'S BEACHWALK--AN EYE-OPENER

We love Aruba.  It IS the “Happy Island” it calls itself, and from what I understand, today’s Aruba does not resemble the tourism in Aruba of even a few years ago.  Certainly since celebrities like Elizabeth Taylor began coming here once Cuba fell to Castro, Aruba has worked very hard at building and promoting its image. The growth is phenomenal, and it is still evolving.  You’ve got plenty of choices, so think about what you are looking for when you’re planning your vacation.

The Riu

Aruba is basically divided into two hotel zones, the high rise and the low rise, descriptive nomenclature based solely on the height of the buildings.  In the high rise section at Palm Beach are the big hotels: Westin, Rui (all inclusive), Marriott, Hyatt Regency, Radisson, Holiday Inn and some others that front on the beach.  Here you’ll also find restaurants, casinos, and plenty of places—many familiar—to shop.  It’s tourist oriented, touristy, and geared to offer the high life in entertainment and in action.

Looking toward the low rise section of hotels

In the low rise section, the hotels and beachfront villas are one and two stories high.  The area is more low-key, and generally there are far fewer people on the beaches. The three Divi all-inclusive resorts are in this area. 

There is a third section of smaller hotels at Eagle Beach. Here you’re somewhere between the flashy high rise and the isolated self-contained low rise.  Eagle Beach hotels are generally located across the street from the beach.  There are nice restaurants within strolling distance, and there are places if you are interested in jet skis, banana boats and other water sports.

It all depends on what you’re looking for in your vacation.  All sections are just a short cab ride from Oranjestad, so you never have a feeling of isolation.

No matter your choice, all the beaches are invitingly tantalizing. In Aruba, you do not have to worry.

A Divi Divi that is not pruned

One very special feature of the high rise section is the beachwalk.  Stretching the entire length is a meandering, paved walkway, and as our hotel, Divi Phoenix, is on the edge of the high rise district, we were at one end.  The beachwalk stretches from our hotel all the way to the Holiday Inn at the other end.

While the paved beachwalk ends at the Divi Phoenix’s border, it continues as a sandy path toward Eagle Beach, and Rob walked this area too.  There in its solitude, he saw beaches as nature intended, lined with waving grasses and other plants.  He enjoyed the quiet naturalness along the Caribbean.

The path cut through the foliage to other beaches

Here was a more quiet atmosphere

a bit as I imagine Paradise

The paved beachwalk, on the other hand, cuts a winding path between the beach and the high rise hotels, and it is a favorite of joggers, walkers, and people with strollers.  It is far more populated than Rob’s sandy route.

pruned Divi Divi

On our walks we pass iconic Divi Divi trees, some pruned neatly and some reaching their branches outward in beautiful disarray.  Divi Divi trees are easily spotted, and they provide a wonderful service by spreading their foliage out to bring shade beneath the tropical sun. 

The beachwalk is also great for people viewing.  Tourists in all their shapes and sizes are fun and interesting to watch.  Everyone has colorful, tropical attire.  Some people are covered to their ankles in flowing fabrics of pastel hues, and some stroll in the skimpiest, tiniest snippets of cloth. It’s a parade of fashion and beach gear. 

Just too beautiful!

It is also fun to get an idea of what’s happening at the huge resorts along the way.  We watched bocci at the Rui and lots of beach volleyball everywhere.  Lounges and hammocks may be occupied, but out on the water there are banana boats, hoby cats, and pirate barks.  In the sky are parasailors.  It’s an atmosphere of vitality, and it’s lovely to be a part of it. 

Many resorts have beach restaurants and bars on the walk, so stopping for a libation or lunch or even Dunkin’ Donuts is always a possibility. 

On the beach side of the walk are the lounges and palapas solely for the hotel guests.  The hotels post signs reminding walkers of that fact. The signs stake out each hotel’s turf.  As the properties are borderless, the differences are really designated by the different styles and colors of the chairs and lounges and the types and shapes of the palapas.  It makes for interesting patterns on the sand and shade as well as for an interesting stroll.

The beaches in Aruba are all open to the public. Regardless of hotel signs, people can make themselves comfortable with their own chairs or blankets.  There are even concessionaires from which you can rent anything you need. There is plenty of room for everyone on these very wide beaches.  Once again, hotel signs “warn” that the concessionaires are not part of the hotel.  The hotels would prefer a bit more exclusion, I’d say, but the concessionaires seem well-established and eager to do business too.

In fact, there are concessions on the beach for just about anything one’s heart desires.  We rented Hoby Cats for sailing.  We could have booked tours right on the beach as well as through our hotel’s concierge: tours of historic, geological, or unique places on the island, boat rides, snorkeling trips or practically anything else including massages.  But to be honest, the beautiful beach and the delightful water keep us close to home most of the day.  Aruba by day is for relaxing and enjoying the warmth on your skin.