THE FLIGHTS FROM HELL!

We've just returned from the flights from Hell! Except for the return flight from Kansas City which is

reminiscent of my golf game--just as I am ready to smash every club in my bag, I finish the last hole nicely and decide I have enough potential to come back. Here’s my story; everything I put forth here is absolutely true.

Rob and I were booked on JetBlue out of Newark for Cancun. TSA pre√, so no long security lines. Not the most convenient flight possible, a one-stop and relatively lengthy layover, but ok.

If you've ever been to Cancun airport, you know it's an offshoot of Britain's Bedlam prison, but no problem. It’s busy because this is the resort crowd landing and everyone and everything is heading for the sun--including Rob's luggage.  Only one problem; we arrived in Cancun; Rob’s luggage went to Montego Bay, Jamaica!

An hour and a half later, after locating the proper airport personnel since JetBlue has no representative in

Cancun airport, we’ve filled out the forms and are promised that the runaway luggage will be on the first flight

to New York’s Kennedy Airport in the morning and then on to Cancun. ETA: Tomorrow afternoon.

By the time we make it out of customs, our driver has left and we are stranded at the airport. Amid pre-trip

warnings from every travel source available including our resort to not take unregistered airport transportation, we are a bit bewildered. Then an angel from Marriott approaches us. He sees our transportation voucher, recognizes it and knows our driver who coincidentally lives in his neighborhood. He phones him and our guy is back in a few minutes. Whew.  He’s actually stationed at the airport and calls for our car and we are whisked off to Temptation Spa and Resort.

Thank goodness for those light-weight zip-off travel pants that Rob is wearing. Unzip the legs and he’s in light-weight shorts which he will have to wear until the next day.  Zip on the legs and he is all right for dinner. 

Meanwhile I unpack and discover my luggage is severely damaged. A zipper is ripped and shredded, but in all the tumult at the airport, I did not notice the protruding twisted wires and did not report it.  Not to worry,

JetBlue’s disclaimer clearly exonerates the company from all responsibility, and I will have to find a repair shop when I get home.  But mishaps occur.  We can roll with the punches, but now is the time for a welcome drink and a little relaxation and enjoyment. 

Rob’s luggage arrives late the next afternoon, and as always, our stay at Temptation is lovely…

Until it was time to check in online for our return flights.  Rob checks in with no problem, but I am not allowed. I am told I have to report to the JetBlue counter at the airport.  ???????????????  Remember, I am TSA pre√.

We leave the hotel in plenty of time, and the driver drops us at the terminal and leaves--the wrong terminal. This one appears to cater to flights within the Spanish speaking world, and we need to get to the flights heading elsewhere.  I am able to converse in Spanish a bit, but my hearing is not good enough to understand the responses, and Rob doesn't speak Spanish at all.  It’s like a Laurel and Hardy movie as we try to decide on the next step. 

Looking obviously bewildered, we are approached by several men offering taxi services, but we remember those travel warnings.  There’s a sign for a shuttle to other terminals, so we get on line and wait and wait and wait.  Then another angel appears (remember the Marriott guy?).  He’s a van driver from Hertz, and he offers us a ride in his van.  This we gratefully accept, and within ten minutes or so I am in front of the JetBlue check-in counter trying to find out what the problem is.

She checks me in promptly, but when I ask why I, a TSA pre √, flier had to check in at the counter, she shows me a series of SSSSS on my ticket.  She says I was “chosen at random.”  So much for Homeland Security.  Prior to flying they check me out, decide I’m safe enough to fly without taking off my shoes, etc., and now they are going to check me out again while who-knows-who gets on the flight with who-knows-what.  What a waste!!!  What inefficiency.

But I had no idea of how I would now be checked.  Rob sails through quickly, and I am throroughly wanded and x-rayed.  My hands are swiped.  My tablet is swiped.  They go through my carry on literally piece by piece.  I finally made it to the gate, but while Rob is allowed to board, I am again pulled aside and totally wanded and my hands are again swiped—now in front of all my fellow passengers who must wonder what kind of suspicious criminal is flying with them!  But, hey, I’ve never felt any governmental agency runs efficiently, so why should the hapless TSA be any different.

Eventually we are settled on the plane, but bad weather in New Jersey delays our departure.  We finally taxi to the runway when the Captain tells us there is a computer problem in the left engine and we have to return to the gate so it can be repaired—maybe.  We sit on board, and more than an hour later the computer is fixed and we taxi out and take off. 

We arrive in Newark at 2:30AM, two hours late!  We first begin luggage and customs.

We have reservations to stay at Wyndham Gardens Hotel where our car is parked, the trunk full of winter

clothes because we have an 11AM flight out to Kansas City, Missouri for our daughter-in-law’s graduation from Command and General Staff College and also for her Master’s Degree. 

We check in, go to out to bring in the clothing so we can switch suitcases, and then we head to the Business

Center to check in our United flight.

We finally connect with United only to learn that our non-stop, three-hour flight has been CANCELLED, and we are rebooked on a one-stop, seven hour flight that leaves later in the day and will get us to Kansas City in the evening.  BUT we have the option of finding another flight, which we do—a one-stop (in Chicago), five-hour flight that requires our taking the 7:30 AM hotel shuttle back to Newark Airport.  Total sleep time = 1.25 hours.

When we get to the airport we make sure to arrange for ground transportation for us in Chicago’s bustling, huge airport.  Rob’s knee will just not make the long walk to our second flight.  No problem says the woman at the desk as she puts through our request.

We arrive in Chicago, get on the golf cart, and the driver tells us he doesn’t have us on his list and we have to get off.  No way, we tell him, and although he threatens calling security, when we tell him to go right ahead, he calls, instead, for another golf cart; we switch, and we are driven to the second gate, a long ride plus an elevator ride. 

We board this plane, fall asleep, and wake up in Kansas City, in a wonderful, compact, easily negotiable airport, find our rental car, find our hotel is only minutes away and no more than ten minutes from Jen’s apartment. 

On the ground, this second leg of our Cancun/Kansas City trip begins, and it is totally delightful.  TOTALLY!  BTW, our trip home was very nice.  We had our non-stop to from KC to Newark, and took a taxi to the Wyndham, tossed our luggage in the car, and it wasn’t long before we were sitting in that familiar diner on Rt. 17 eating Chef Salads.

Flying has become a torture.  I rather drive an entire day than go through the trouble of a flight.  How do you

feel about this?

CARIBBEAN SUN IN CANCUN, MEXICO'S TEMPTATION

One inauspicious way to begin a vacation in Cancun, Mexico’s tropical climate is being dressed for New York’s December weather and knowing that Rob's luggage, filled with light-weight clothes, is not with us; rather, thanks to a JetBlue glitch, Rob’s luggage is sitting in Montego Bay, Jamaica. 

 A second inauspicious way is spending so much time in the airport filling out lost luggage reports that by the time we get through Customs, our driver has left! 

BUT a dispatcher from a Marriott resort sees the reservation voucher in my hand, tells us our man is a friend, calls him on the phone, and he is back in a few minutes. What appears to be continuing disaster is put to rights. We have a pleasant ride to Temptation, our hotel, and when we arrive, we heave sighs of relief.  I unpack my luggage, and then we head to Margaritas Restaurant for a late lunch and, you guessed it, margaritas.  This is a true-life experience where the words, "I need a drink" applies. Rob’s luggage is expected the next afternoon.

We like Temptation Resort and Spa (see http://thirdagetraveler.blogspot.com/2010/01/temptation-in-cancun-great-respite-from.html), and we like Cancun. Even before we enter the lobby, the thematic red and white colors as well as the signature sight of an apple announces that we've entered a tempting world. We move quickly from the lobby to the VIP reception area. Temptation is an all-inclusive hotel as well as a timeshare, and as owners here, we are treated very nicely. As in many all-inclusives, we are banded at check-in.  White wrist bands for owners, red for hotel guests.  Instantly distinguishable and important.

Our room, red and white, continues the theme.  On one wall is a metal sculpture, a lone, lazy tree branch whose end is dropping leaves and a single apple. On the dresser is a silver metallic sculpture of a man and a woman familiarly entwined. Tucked in the bed’s headboard alcove is another apple, and beneath the smoky glass of our night tables as well as behind the apple alcove glow soft seductive red lights. It's sleek, modern, romantic and charming. Our balcony has a spa as well as a privacy shade. It's all quite seductive. As owners here, we also receive sparkling white spa robes and slippers, a nice touch.

But Cancun, after all, is for the Caribbean sun which we cannot really enjoy on our first afternoon as we wait for Rob's luggage to arrive. On day 2 we are ready to make up for that. The resort is comprised of a series of red and white buildings, whose angular design affords as many ocean-view rooms as possible and also breaks up the resort into sections that belie its size and the number of visitors. The feel is intimate. 

Nestled among the buildings are the three swimming pools that also serve as dividers of sorts as each attracts a different type of guest. There is a sports pool for lap swimming, water volleyball and basketball as well as a host of other organized or pick-up games. On its deck, one might play corn hole.  Or just laze in one of the sunbeds and be spectators. 

There is the "fun" pool, the biggest pool, with the swim-up bar where the music booms, the hotel staff runs games and contests, and is friendly, outgoing, and enthusiastic. 

There is the quiet pool, where only if the Caribbean breezes blow quite right does one faintly hears sounds from the "fun" pool. It has its own bar and swim-up bar.  At one end are several whirlpool spas. 

Just stop to pick up your bright red (for guests) or sparkling white (for owners) towels and head to the pool or beach section of your choice.  (Those white towels are your entry “keys” to some special benefits.)

Remember, we're on the Caribbean, and the long stretch of beach that is Temptation’s is also cleverly divided by different activity offerings, so no one gets that jammed Coney Island feeling. There are lounges, cabanas, hammocks, four-poster beach beds rimmed with billowing gauzy white fabric ready for occupants.  There's a special section for owners, both on the beach and on a separated deck above the “fun" pool.  This section has a bar all its own and waiter service.    

The Caribbean Sea is beautifully multi-hued in shades of green and blue. Cool sand underfoot. Gradual slope into the water. Clear, clear, clear water. We watch small silvery fish dart back and forth in tiny, shiny schools. We cool off in the calm waters and watch, down the beach a bit, a woman taking her first sailboard lesson and a man working on his newly learned paddle board technique. Life here is enthusiastically relaxing.  That doesn’t mean sitting all day.  There’s something going on to suit everyone’s taste.  We like the catamarans.  There’s always a nice breeze to make good sailing.

There are docks at several points along the beach where yachts are moored. Owners have access to a yacht for 10-person private 4 hour party at a reasonable cost. The group can be arranged for you, and we're seriously thinking about this for our next visit.

Temptation is an adult-only resort.  I do not mind the absence of children one iota.  We like the freedoms of adult-only.  The ages of the guests range from the early 30s to the 70s.  Everyone is friendly, and there are many Europeans here.  

Our favorite couple this time was a young couple from Wales.  He tempted his wife to come out on a jetski, calming her by saying it's not a fast ride. (?)  She came back after five minutes, green and wobbly!  Then he took off again!  Solo. We also met a man who comes about five times a year "just to get away."  He would be back in six weeks!  We also met a couple from Canada for whom this trip was their eighth visit and they are finally thinking of buying here.

in Bella Vista

As an all-inclusive resort, you've got to consider food, and at Temptation it is excellent and varied.  Choose room service or a marvelous breakfast buffet at El Embarcadero. Folks show up at this informal setting wearing just about anything imaginable.  

There is also a lunch buffet, but Rob and I prefer Margaritas and the idea of a leisurely meal. 

Dinner is another matter. If you choose informal, there is a dinner buffet or there is the relative informality of Margaritas.  If you prefer dining to eating, however, you need to put on those nice casual clothes, lose the sandals and add to the romantic ambiance of a candlelit meal where service is impeccable, nothing is rushed, and everything is delicious.  Here you have several restaurant choices. There is a lovely restaurant, Bella Vista, featuring seafood and Caribbean cuisine where Rob and I enjoyed our first night; there we will have the owners-only lobster dinner later in the week.  Il Placere is the Italian restaurant which I remember with gustatory fondness and where we need reservations (yes, even owners do). And there is the reservation-required Asian restaurant, The Village Wok, also serving excellent meals, wonderful ambiance, and a superb dining experience.

 If by chance you experience some late night craving,  it is available at PatyOs, the evening place for drinks, music and entertainment, all in abundant and often loud quantities.   We actually enjoy sitting just outside PatyOs on some wonderfully comfortable chairs, people watching, and sipping our Fundador brandy, Spain's largest exported brandy dating back to 1874. Nice. We sometimes switch to Presidente, made from Mexican grapes, or to Don Pedro, another Spanish Brandy.  Variety is the spice of life. 

I believe Patty Os is open for “snacking” all night.

Activities. There is an entire travel agency in the main building.  This area of Mexico is a great jumping off point to see and do things you’ve read about in history books.  Visiting  Chichen Itza, the pre-Columbian Maya city,  is an extraordinary daytrip.  It’s mind-blowing and full of mystery and magic as well as incredible architecture and history.  On this tour were stops at other sites along the way and explanations of plants and buildings.  Wonderful outing.  You might want to go snorkeling in a cenote.  Visit an Indian home.  Shop in the upscale mall in Cancun.  Visit World Heritage eco-archeological Xcaret Park where you can swim with the dolphins, snorkel, and get a taste of Mayan culture.  It’s a fantastic place.  Attend a bullfight (which I found disgusting and will never, ever, do again anywhere).  (I blame that mistake on Ernest Hemingway!)

 In addition to offering any type of tour you might desire from companies represented right here in the hotel,  guests cruise the Caribbean on Temptation's party boat, go snorkeling, use jet skis, sail catamarans, or take a ferry leaving from the hotel  across the eight miles of water to Isla Mujeres, a delightful island as far away from Cancun in temperament as you can get. I cannot forget to mention the great Beauty Parlor where we've had, in the past, massages or Temptation's Cigar Bar. Wonderful  There is no way you can be bored!

A few words about staff. You will be hard pressed to find a more accommodating, friendly, and conscientious staff anywhere. They remember you, say hola when you pass anyplace at the resort and help make your stay memorable. Need help with your Spanish? They'll try to help you. I include everyone. Without exception.  This has been true each time we’ve come, so it is part of the hotel, and, we’ve found when we leave the hotel, the Mexican culture.

At Temptation, ownership definitely has its rewards. If you read online reviews of the resort, you might come across several complaining about the special treatment owners receive. It's true. That's part of the allure. We've owned for five years. But here is a warning.  I do not recommend buying here. You are buying in a foreign country, and if the company does not honor every aspect of your contact, you have little recourse.  We felt that a section of our contract was not being honored. We did discuss it down here (phone calls from home were not returned and emails went unanswered), and we did reach an unsatisfactory compromise. However, we would never buy anything from this company again because we cannot trust their word or even their written contact.  On the other hand, we will continue to come and enjoy ourselves. No use cutting off our noses to spite or faces. 

So I recommend coming as a guest.  Yes, owners are special, but this resort treats all its guests well.

There are a few places on the property that look a touch tired, but maintenance is ongoing. We had a leak in the showerhead; it was fixed within a short period of time. There was hurricane damage throughout Cancun a few years ago, and there has also been a lot of re-building.  I've read some negative reviews, but that has never been our experience, and as they are so few and far between, I consider them anomalies. 

This is a big resort employing a great number of people.  Restaurant windows sparkle. Everything that should be white--the gauzy fabrics and beach beds--on buildings and borders are crisply dazzling white. The beach is raked. The chairs are arranged.  The towels are big and plush.  We have never been disappointed.

The sport pool early in the morning

One thing about Temptation--you can relax and luxuriate in the sun, swim in the Caribbean, or you can knock yourself out and go home in need of a vacation. No matter how you work it, there's no reason ever to be bored even if you never leave the resort.

If things go as planned, we will head back sometime in 2015 for another good week.  We just hope our luggage decides to come with us!

I love towel sculptures!!!!

FRIDAY'S FOTO--THE BEACH IN CANCUN, MEXICO

Cancun as the day draws to a close.

FRIDAY'S FOTO

Moonglow in beautiful Mexico.
This is from our outside Cancun patio looking across to Isla Mujeres.  

FRIDAY'S FOTO

the amazing young cliff divers in Acapulco

FRIDAY'S FOTO

I get such a kick out of towel sculptures.  This lovely senorita greeted us one day at our timeshare, Temptations, in Cancun, Mexico.  Muy bonita.

TEMPTATION IN CANCUN--A GREAT RESPITE FROM WINTER

I love Cancun. Don't come here expecting to be seeped in Mexican history and culture; for that you travel as we did last year to places like Chichen Itza where you'll stare in wonder at the magnificence of the Mayan culture. Cancun, on the other hand, was created specifically to draw tourists, and it does so successfully. Come here for the vitality, friendliness, fun, sun, sand, and Caribbean Sea. Visit El Centro for its shopping, Corrida del Toros (once was enough for me), Mercado 28 and good Mexican restaurants, but remember that this city is a result of hotel building.

Last year Rob and I stayed two weeks outside The Hotel Zone, a fifteen mile strip along a gorgeous beachfront lined with hotels, clubs, shops, places to begin tours to other parts of Mexico. We stayed in a sister hotel to the Temptation Resort and Spa where we are this year. It was much quieter last year in the family-oriented Blue Bay Club. http://thirdagetraveler.blogspot.com/2009/03/mexico-and-time-in-cancun.html. We took day trips, snorkeled, sailed, and had our son and our friends join us in our suite. We enjoyed ourselves so much we bought another timeshare—from Premier by Original. Unlike the Blue Bay Club, Temptation is adults only. Twenty-one and over. There's a vivaciousness and tone geared to adults, and we find it a welcome change. Because we are only here for a week, our plans are different, and we are looking for the action and atmosphere of this resort.

Temptation Resort and Spa's décor is red and white, and we like the fresh feeling of it all.

Place these colors against a backdrop of green palms, three blue pools--a fun pool, a sports pool, and a quiet pool, and the sparkling aquas of the Caribbean, and we feel just fine. Our room is charming with a balcony overlooking, to the left the marina with its complement of incredible boats including the one we are entitled as owners to use during our stay, to the center the beach and sea, and to the right the big “fun” pool with swim-bar. Although the hotel is completely booked, it is run so smoothly that there is never a crowded feeling.

During the day there's action and music on shore and views of parasailors, windsurfers, hobycat sailors, and of many other water activities. The music at the fun pool is loud, happy, and spans decades and music styles. It begins early, but then it is New Age morning music. It changes throughout the day, and it's great. Early mornings bring glorious sunrises, and evenings bring the lights of Isla Mujeres out in the distance and lights of two dinner cruise galleons from farther down in the Hotel Zone.

As owners we are treated as royalty with our own VIP room and “butler,” Alberto who makes arrangements for us, particularly advance reservations in one of the four excellent specialty restaurants: Asian, Italian, Tex-Mex, and Seafood. Other perks we receive are free wifi, lovely bathrobes, “premier” menus at the restaurants in addition to the regular menu, higher quality liquor, Bacardi Anejo for example. At the beach there is a “Members Only” section where a separate bar and chaises are set up. This is not to suggest that regular hotel guests are treated badly. Indeed, looking around I see nothing but happy faces.

Escaping the frigid temperatures at home this January, we arrive to find our room's thermostat set to 65°. That's where we keep the temperature at home which my son describes as a “meat locker.” We raise the thermostat to 68°. Unlike last year when we did a lot of sightseeing, we intend this week to be a beach escape with snorkeling in a cenote as our only day trip. We already know we'll be back. From Temptation we can sail HobyCats to our hearts' delight, and that means every day possible.

Our routine is simple. After breakfast we walk along the jogging/walking path on the hotel zone or use the hotel's gym. The gym is nicely equipped, and its floor-to-ceiling windows overlook the sports pool. In addition to the usual accoutrements, there are bowls of fresh fruit. We spend the rest of the day at the beach. We keep the bartender/waiter busy preferring lunch here although we sometimes tear ourselves away for El Embarcadero for the luncheon buffet.

It is winter here, and the sun disappears behind the hotel sometime around 3 PM, so we have time to shower and change before heading to Paty O's to begin the evening activities.

We try each of the specialty restaurants, and each is superb. I cannot show you photos because they are beautifully but dimly lighted. The décor is lovely and in keeping with the food. Service is exceptional. What I especially appreciated is the high ceilings and the noise absorbing décor. I hate the bare walled, techno style with nothing on either wall or window to absorb sound. At Temptation, the ambient noise did not prevent soft conversation, something dearly missing from most restaurants today.

We are so relaxed we decide to forgo the cenotes this year and spend some more time in the spa becoming even more relaxed with massages! The concierge helps me find a tour where we can snorkel in three different ecosystems, and that sounds grand. If we come back here next year, I’ll keep that in mind, but we might head to Cabo where there is another Temptation. That’s mighty tempting.
One more thing: I'm a sucker for towel sculptures, and our chambermaid was an artist.

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CHICHEN ITZA--ONE OF THE SEVEN WONDERS

The lure is the sparkling white sand beaches that never get hot under my feet. The lure is the brilliant,

shimmering, green, warm welcoming Caribbean waters that soothe and refresh simultaneously. The lure is the patio where we sip cool drinks, kick back and watch provocative Isla Mujeras signaling us from the horizon while the waving green palm fronds cajole us to stay. The lure is looking to my left and watching the Marina’s beautiful boats coming and going. The lure is the rich Mexican culture steeped in fact and mystery.

I really love the beach, but there is just too much to see. First on our culture list is Chichen Itza dating from a pre-Mayan era and located three hours from Cancun. Visiting the ruins at Tulum several years ago, we were blown away, but Tulum pales compared to Chichen Itza’s magnitude.

At one time in the ancient world, “all roads led to Chichen Itza” through a road system cut through the dangerous jungles and paved with crushed white coral. The coral reflected the moonlight making night travel possible, thereby protecting travelers from the oppressive heat and some of the daylight dangers.

But forget history momentarily. Enjoy the Chichen Itza we see, voted as one of the Seven Wonders of the World. Its centerpiece is the huge Kulkulkan Pyramid with 91 steps up and a platform at the top, the total number creating several types of calendars for the Mayan world.

Look at the size of the pyramid. It honors Kulkulkan, the snake/feather god who came once and promised to return. The snake head is at the base of the pyramid, and as your vision rises up the corner of the pyramid, you can see the snake’s body rising skyward. At the equinoxes, the shadows make the snake appear to undulate. Clap your hands in front of the pyramid, and the incredible acoustics make the sound of a bird flying away!

Snake & Feather

BTW, the acoustics are such that Pavorotti gave a three hour concert here for several thousand people, the last hour without a microphone!

If this pyramid were all, that would be enough. But there’s so much more.

The game of this ancient world was El Gran Juego de Pelota played in a magnificent ball court, the ruler sitting in his “box” at one end of the 545 foot long court. He could speak and be heard the entire length of the court. If one claps hands, the echo is heard seven times. In 1931 the great Leopold Stokowski spent four days here to try to determine the secret of the acoustics so he could apply it to concert halls. The secret remains.

The game was played by two teams of seven. The players had to hit a rubber ball with their hips through a stone ring high above their heads. The prize—the captain of the winning team was beheaded by the losing captain. It was considered and honor and a ticket to heaven. Carvings on the ball court walls illustrate the rules as well as the “reward.”

The Warriors Temple is also a magnificent late-Mayan structure. It is presumed that sacrifices occurred here. One theory is that maidens were taken here several days prior to the sacrifice and were systematically drugged until they were incapable of understanding what was happening or of feeling the pain. Their bodies would be cut, hands would reach in to extract their still beating hearts, and the watching crowds would interpret this as divinely inspired ecstasy.

I am only highlighting some of the structures we examined. Take a tour here. You can take any of the tours from Cancun or from wherever you’re staying on the Yucatan Peninsula, or you can come to the site and hire a guide at the gate. While I like to prepare by reading beforehand, the guides bring this ancient place to life, and the result is stupendous and mind boggling. You leave with the questions that have haunted scholars through the ages about the mysterious disappearance of the Mayan civilization as well as of the knowledge that created this incredible and very scientific area. One theory can be found in the book Chariots of the Gods. Do do do do…. (That’s supposed to be the Twilight Zone theme)

Chichen Itza is so huge that we could not see it all in one visit, but we will be back in the area, and we’ll get to see the rest the next time.

vacation trips travel "travel+blogs" "Third+Age+Traveler" "third+age" reviews "senior+travel" "North+America" Mexico Yucatan Cancun Mayan Indians Tulum "Chichen+Itza" pyramids Kulkulkan temples warriors "Temple+of+the+Warriors" "Ball+Court" pelota acoustics Pavarotti Stokowski pictures photos "travel+photos" history culture beaches Caribbean "Isla+Mujeres" "Seven+Wonders+of+the+World" "Chariots+of+the+Gods" "Twilight+Zone" mysteries

MEXICO--and TIME IN CANCUN

Viva Mexico! Caribbean paradise or Pacific heaven—the choice is yours. The country is beautiful and diverse; the people welcoming, the culture historical, preserved, and interesting.

A two-week winter break in Cancun seemed like a good idea to us last Spring so we booked it—magnificently warm weather, Caribbean’s green water and silky, cool white sand, an all-inclusive hotel suite big enough to invite company, and plenty of cultural venues close by should we muster the energy and inclination to coax ourselves off the chaise.

Love sailing? Sailing Hobie Cats on the Caribbean is exhilarating. The spectacular greens of the water sparkle like jewels, the rushing wind speeds us around windsurfers and kite boarders. All of us prefer the power of nature to the power of loud motors.

Love snorkeling? We snorkel off Isla Mujeres’ reef. This is an island we see in the distance from our patio. It sparkles in the night’s blackness. A trimaran trip drops us at the coral reef where we spent time with the vividly colored fishes. We spend the rest of the day exploring Isla Mujeres, dining in a hotel there, and enjoying the sights.

We decided to visit some distant places but not cheat ourselves of the beach. One day in the city of Cancun would be fine.

Have a yen to experience Mexican culture via the bullfight? Each Wednesday at Plaza de Toros there is a bullfight performed as it is all over Mexico and other Latin American countries. Preceding the fight itself is a show featuring pig chases, dancing, lariat twirling, horsemanship, and other colorful folkloric acts. That’s a nice hour.

The bullfight is modeled after Spain’s, ritualistic and choreographed. We saw the real thing. Once is enough for me. But the pictures do tell it.



Plaza de Toros is in downtown Cancun and before the bullfight, a short walk takes us into the Mexican business and residential section where my rudimentary Spanish helps. There we visit an upscale mall geared to upscale Mexicans rather than to tourists. No bilingual signs, for instance. It’s good to visit here for a number of reasons, and one is to permanently debunk a slew of stereotypes. In Cancun, the tourists are really congregated in one major area, and over and over again we find we have to go looking for Mexico.

After the bullfight we head to Mercado 28, the biggest flea market I’ve ever seen and in some ways the equivalent to NYC’s lower East Side. There isn’t a tour book that doesn’t highly recommend a visit. Booth after booth of merchandise with hawkers outside telling me to “Start here; you won’t need to go elsewhere!” That line emanated from silver merchants, t-shirt merchants, postcard merchants, leather merchants, clothing merchants, wood sculpture merchants, etc., etc., etc. (as the King would say). Overwhelming, for sure. If you want to bring home a piece of Mexico, this is the place to find it. Rob brought home three beautiful leather belts.

From Mercado 28, a 15 minute walk through a business and residential neighborhood with one more stop to ask directions in my shaky Spanish from a man sitting in a store’s doorway, we head to Parillas, a restaurant highly touted for its Mexican authenticity and mariachi music (a favorite of ours). Too touristy, I’m afraid. Michael, Rob and I tried dinners that provided samples of different Mexican foods, but something was lacking—it seemed geared toward non-Mexican tourists—and I can’t recommend this restaurant.

The mariachi band proved to be strolling musicians willing to play a song at your table for 70 pesos. Not expensive. BUT their repertoire seemed to be limited to La Bomba and several versions of Happy Birthday. We ordered seconds of excellent, delicious, and potent margaritas instead, and I report that we were much happier for that experience.

There are places in Cancun where Mexico is lost, or where Mexico is what we see in the movies. We had to go far afield to find what we were really looking for, but I will write about that next month.

We took a taxi back to Blue Bay Club. Our day in Cancun proper was long, varied, and interesting. We also compiled a list of things to do for our next visit, which may be this coming winter.

Mexico Cancun trips vacations travel bullfight markets "flea+markets" "Mercado+28" "Plaza+de+Toros" "Hobie+Cats" sailing windsurfing water ocean Caribbean Pacific snorkling "Isla+Mujeres" tours matador picador bandillero folklore dancing roping horses entertainment
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Travel tips

While Americans expect never to pay sticker price for a car, they’re often skittish about bargaining about prices in foreign countries although every travel book about Mexico suggests bargaining is an expectation. Perhaps our hesitance has something to do with the knowledge of how wonderfully well we live in the United States. We don't like to take advantage of people we provincially see as less fortunate. At any rate, on our tours in Mexico, the guides warned us, as the tour books did, to refuse the marked price and to pay not more than 20% below that. That is about the difference agreed upon whenever we did shop—Michael’s Cuban cigar, Rob’s leather belts, my rain-god sculpture—all from different locations. Michael and I were skittish, but Rob took the guides at their word and lo and behold, they were right!

One other caution about travel in Mexico. Agree on the taxi fare before entering the taxi. There are no meters. Your hotel concierge will give you an amount to expect to pay. When we left Plaza de Toros, for instance, the first driver, spotting tourists, quoted an outlandish amount. When Rob countered with the amount somewhat closer to the concierge’s suggestion, the driver immediately agreed. We were on our way with all parties satisfied.

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TRAVEL TIPS

In our provincial way of thinking, we believe that everyone speaks English to some degree and that everyone takes American money. To some extent that is true, but if you really want to get a feel for the country, there are some things you might do.

See if you can pick up some of the language. I used a program called Onlingo for some months before we headed to Cancun. I can’t say I was diligent, but I was able to bring back enough Spanish so that I could have an actual conversation with a taxi driver. We discussed the price of gas—higher in socialized Mexico than in the U.S., his feelings about President Calderon, his feelings about government corruption, and the beauty of the area around Cancun. It was wonderful, and it wouldn’t have happened without Onlingo. True, he slowed down his Spanish considerably, but he was very willing to help me communicate with him.

If you’re not interested in buying a program like Onlingo or Rosetta Stone, go to http://education-portal.com/ and click on “Free on-line courses and education” under step 2 for free on-line courses. It will pump you up for your trip.

Many of the people in charge at the hotels speak English, but the serving people, etc. often know just enough English to do their jobs. But they appreciate it if you try, and they try to help you out. People are nice.

We had a great experience in a restaurant. Rob ordered bourbon without ice. The waiter brought the drink, placed it in front of Rob and said, “Bourbon, nice.” Rob knew the waiter wanted to indicate there was no ice. Rob and he then began a somewhat convoluted discussion that ended with the waiter knowing the word was “neat” when you indicated no ice. They actually shook hands at the end of the discussion.

A second hint concerns money. Yes, many people will accept American money, but the exchange rate is not always equal. For instance, from our hotel, the taxi fare to the airport was $27.00 US. However, when we converted that to pesos at the going exchange rate, our real cost was $18.90 US. That’s quite a difference even with the ATM fee factored in.

When you use the ATM, there will be fees, but it may still be worth your while to do the math. At the hotel desk, the exchange rate may not appear as advantageous, but there are no fees. It doesn’t take long to figure it out, and once you do, the rest of your vacation will be smooth. It’s also kind of fun, and a good travel experience to use the country’s monetary system.

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LAST STOP IN MEXICO - CABO SAN LUCAS

Cabo San Lucas is gorgeous! It is the last stop in Mexico before we arrive at our final destination, San Francisco. The beauty of Mexico doesn’t diminish as we travel north. Each port has its own special lure, and Cabo’s famed stone arch—el arco—is breathtakingly awesome. The arch is at the southernmost tip of the Baja Peninsula where the Pacific Ocean and the Sea of Cortez meet. It’s a place called Land’s End. As the Coral Princess glides toward its anchorage position, we are treated to spectacular vistas from our balcony. To one side is el arco, ahead are beautiful beaches, beyond are mountains, and above are para-sailors. We can’t wait to board our tender to take us ashore!

Rob and I booked a shore excursion—well, not quite “shore”—it is a boat tour and scenic drive. We’ll take a boat to see el arco up close as well as the myriad sea life; there are pelicans everywhere. Our tour is narrated so we learn about the ecology of the area. Once again we’re surrounded by courteous people who share the railings and trade cameras to take photos of one another. It’s a beautiful day and a magnificent boat ride. We pass Lover’s Beach with its smooth white sand nestled between towering rock outcroppings, and there are people swimming and sunbathing there. Other boats sail or motor by, and there are even some sea kayakers. There is a great deal of activity, but it appears leisurely and uncrowded—interesting but untouristy.

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After our boat ride, we board a mini-bus that drives us up into the rugged mountains surrounding the Bay of Cabo San Lucas. As in other ports we’ve visited there are construction projects everywhere. Mexico’s tourist industry is booming, and it’s easy to see why. We head to a beautiful hotel on a cove where we enjoy some Mexican beer—dos cervezas—and gaze enchanted at the view from the terrace. Below us on the beach are surfers enjoying the waves of the bay. We look over the vividly colored flowers toward the omnipresent el arco. The world seems peaceful. We’re happy, and that’s what vacations are all about.

When we return to the town, we have time to wander in and out of shops and go to a wonderful, trendy place, Cabo Wabo, for lunch.
(see http://thirdagetraveler.blogspot.com/2008/05/hey-that-guys-doing-cabo-wabo.html2) One drawback of cruising is time. It would have been nice to stay a while longer.

By the time we meander back to the dock to board the launch returning us to the Coral Princess, we’ve had a nice sampling of the area and some awesome pictures embedded in our minds. Cabo is a place I’d like to return to and stay.

This is our last stop in Mexico, but we have enjoyed ourselves so much that Rob and I decide to vacation here in the winter. We think we prefer the Caribbean side with its calmer waters. We’ve visited there on other cruises.

A winter 2009 Mexican vacation was our plan last May, and I’m pleased to say that the plan became reality, and Cancun is the destination. You’ll soon be reading about that trip. I’ve been working on my Spanish almost since we returned from the Panama Canal cruise, so I hope to be able to get out of the tourist mode more than I might otherwise be able. I’ll let you know.

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NEXT PORT--ACAPULCO

Acapulco has a mystical quality born of movies and movie stars. I picture luxurious homes nestled in the mountains surrounding a gloriously magnificent bay where Hollywood’s yachts and Mexican fishing boats mingle. Acapulco was the escape of Johnny Weissmuller, John Wayne, and many other stars. I picture exciting nightlife filled with the beat of Mariachi music, colorful clothing, and exotic food and drink. I envision the famed Acapulco cliff divers, flying in graceful arches out over the craggy and dangerous cliffs to cut the water cleanly and beautifully. I hear the amazed gasps of onlookers. That is the Acapulco we see as the next stop on our Panama Canal Cruise. Acapulco puts my senses into magnificent overload.

As Hualtulco was championed as the Acapulco of 20 years ago, I love the exciting air of the Acapulco of today. Nothing here disappoints, and though Acapulco is often derided as too touristy, I say again that I am a tourist and I want to see, particularly on a first visit, how a destination earns its reputation.

We book a motor coach tour where Carmen, our terrific and knowledgeable guide, gives us insight into her beloved city. For two years Carmen spent two hours daily studying English because, she says, that is the way to break into Acapulco’s economy. She speaks beautifully. She boasts that there is no welfare in Mexico.

We begin with a drive through the city, looking at the city’s squares, dominate images in any Mexican city. The square is where people congregate, dance, meet on Sundays after church, and enjoy themselves. We drive along the beachfront where fresh fish is sold daily by Acapulco’s fishermen, and we travel Costera Miguel Aleman to Puerto Marques Bay. The views are stunning. The water is the deepest blue with ribbons of breaking surf. The cliffs rising through the waves glint in the sunlight, and form patterns of bronze or lush green above the blue. Breathtaking! We stop at La Quebrada to watch the famed Acapulco cliff divers.

These young men, who are unionized as cliff divers, traditionally learn their skills from their families and begin as young children. The height of the highest dive is 130 ft., and because of the risks, a diver can make that dive no more than once weekly. This is a show to behold.

The divers walk down the stairway to a patio overhang. Leaving their sandals behind, they dive into the water and swim across the inlet to the cliffs. Barefoot, they climb up the steep cliffs until each reaches his rocky perch.

I gasp as some find their centers and fling themselves from the cliffs, their beautiful bodies arching, their arms spread wide and high, their toes as pointed as great danseurs. Their bronze bodies contrast with the rocks and the water, and we viewers are awed by the beauty and the daring.

Then other men leave their stone parapets, reaching out and then

somersaulting to jackknife toward the water, stretching to their final, clean, entry to the water where we view small, white, momentary, bubbly circles.

The lone man who makes the 130 ft. dive stretches his muscles, prays and crosses himself at a stone altar before his attempt. He literally flings himself from the precipice, gliding through the air away from the cliffs until he allows his body to cut through the air into the water. You will see from my photos the heights from which he dives.

As if we haven’t seen enough, our tour then takes us to The Mayan Palace Hotel for lunch and for some time to enjoy the facilities. This magnificent Mayan themed 5-star hotel captures the beauty and freedom of the ocean and reflects, dramatically, the history of a people. From the beach the views of the mountains are stunning. The hotel captures the Mayan architecture. It is lush and open with vibrant flowers of all kinds and hues. Walking past several pools, we come to the most extraordinary mile-long pool which winds its way along the beach. It is landscaped, edged with lounges and nicely spaced ladders to enter and exit. Glorious. Rob and I spend the rest of our time there and swim much of its length. What a fantastic way to enjoy our day.

We even learn that the Mayan Palace is a timeshare as well, and we can come back through RCI. That’s a thought worth considering although this winter we are off to Cancun—on the Caribbean side--for a few weeks.

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