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Monday, October 16, 2017

OF CATTLE, THE BIGHORNS, WILD MUSTANGS AND RODEOS

Sometimes life ain't easy

Our Tauck group walked into the Sheridan, Wyoming Holiday Inn after a day crossing part of Wyoming, having a great time at the TA Ranch, and enjoying every moment of the day.  

Despite the entertainment possibilities of the hotel which was quite inviting, I think most of us called it an early night. It was not until breakfast the following morning that we had the great surprise of being able to catch a bit of a cattle auction in progress right in the hotel and attended by ranchers and others not only from Wyoming but also from all over the west.  Cowboy hats and boots and a thick, printed catalogue were the order of the day for them, and we noticed immediately.

Lots of advertising, quite unlike what any of us were accustomed to seeing
As each of us found out we were welcome in the huge room with big screens where the auction was televised, we let others know, and most of us eventually went to see what was going on.  Haha No cattle in the hotel; we saw men and women leafing through their auction books, and we heard the real life sounds of the auction bidding occurring before our eyes.  It was barely 8:00 AM. As we were all from the Eastern Seaboard, Chicago, or California,  this truly was a first for us all.

The auction was pretty exciting, and people kept drifting in and out of the room
We were definitely acting like tourists taking in everything, and the people running product sales tables outside the auction room were friendly as can be and gave us hats, pens, pot holders, and all kinds of souvenirs.  Those hats became chapeau de jour for a large part of the remainder of the trip. 

After breakfast, however, we were off to cross our first mountain range. We climbed the majestic Bighorn Mountains on our way to Cody, Wyoming.  We crossed the peaks at 9,300 ft.  What a view we had from Cutler Hill at 8,347 feet.  Then we passed through towns like Greybull, WY with a population of 1,837, and Shell, WY with a 2010 census count of 83.  Ten miles outside of Cody there were wild mustangs running on the flats.  Exciting to see them gallop across the range.

Pretty magnificent, wouldn't you say?
I wanted to share this picture of a house by the side of the road.
Somehow I don't think this would be the plot of land I'd buy for my home.

In Cody in time for lunch, we also had free time to wander downtown, and do some shopping before heading to the Buffalo Bill Center of the West, a fascinating museum and a real treasure trove of information and artifacts about Buffalo Bill, the West and the tribes that live there.  The Center is really five excellent museums in one, but we did not have time to take it all in.   Most online travel sites, not surprisingly, suggest a 2-day pass to see it all.

One museum is specifically about William  F. Cody’s life, not quite what we’ve been led to believe, but fascinating nevertheless.  What a showman he was!  The museum has many of his personal items but also posters, books, and history.  

This is a representation of the kind of sets used during the shows.
Cody not only brought his Wild West Show around the United States
but also spent several years touring Europe and becoming the
toast of the continent.
The Whitney Western Art Museum highlights the scope of western-inspired art in sculpture, paintings, and prints, and it, too, is a treasure.  If you visit the museum site, you will be able to view their online collection.

We didn’t have a chance to visit the Draper Natural History Museum, but it might have been good to add to our knowledge before we entered Yellowstone National Park.

There’s the fascinating and informative Plains Indian Museum.  This is more than a collection of artifacts and art.  Rather it is a history of the people, their culture, and today a study of the movement of the Plains Indians over the course of 250 years is underway.  Additionally, the people are seen in the context of  their life today.  It is an impressive place to visit, and there is a lot to learn.

The Cody Firearms Museum is reputed to be the most comprehensive in the world. Rob liked that one.

It was at the Museum, too, where we had a private show (yes, just for the 16 of us) by the Dan Miller Trio, a band specializing in country, bluegrass, Americana, gospel.  They were terrific. 


On a personal note—Because I need hearing assistive devices, the Tauck director brought along what we’d successfully been using on the tour, but Dan had his own equipment as his sister is deaf, and he wanted to share his music with everyone.  We used his equipment; before the show began, he made sure I could hear, and I thoroughly enjoyed it!!!  Never forget how nice people can be.

Dan also played “Happy Trails to You,” and, of course, we all knew it and sang along. Our travel companion, Maurice, related a story.  As a small boy in Northern Ireland, he belonged to the Roy Rogers Riding Club.  Every Saturday morning, they met to watch the Roy Rogers Show on TV.  We loved that. On the last evening and dinner together on the tour, we all sang that song to him.  That’s the kind of group it was.

The day was not nearly over.  We checked in to the Best Western Premier Ivy Hotel, and after dinner headed to the Cody Stampede for the rodeo.  Cody, WY is no ordinary town.  It bills itself as the Rodeo Capital of the World, and, incredibly, there is a rodeo EVERY NIGHT throughout the summer.


Great time at the rodeo.  Dangerous and adrenaline producing.  I like the team calf roping and the barrel racing best.  I cannot believe the angles at which those horses round the barrels.  There was plenty of see, plenty of oohs, and plenty of pictures.

The Rodeo opens with a display of beautifully executed synchronized horsewomanship and flags
and recognition of the many sponsors.
Bull riding is as dangerous as it looks

My favorite is the barrel racing.
I am wowed at the angles at which the horses move around the barrels
running as fast as the riders can handle
and as close to the barrels as a rider can get
so she can cut time off her ride.
True team spirit and ability.



Just look at that horse's legs.
That may be close to 1,000 pounds rounding that barrel.

By the time we finished the rodeo, it was time to head back to the hotel for a good night's sleep.Yellowstone was coming up next.














Friday, October 06, 2017

There's a thrill going into caverns.  Whether it's Carlsbad, Meramec, Luray,  Ausable or
any other of the many caverns that can be visited, you will be amazed.
Nor does it matter how many times you go.  It's always different.
It's always amazing.  It's always something that makes you shake your head in wonder.
This picture was taken in Virginia in the Shenandoah Valley's Luray Caverns, one of the many we've visited.

Wednesday, October 04, 2017

WYOMING'S TA RANCH--JOHNSON COUNTY WAR, HORSES, CATTLE RANCHING AND MORE!

South Dakota with its natural and man-made wonders gives me quite a few awe-inspiring moments but does not seem to daunt Tauck Tours.  They are ready to WOW us again.  Leaving South Dakota for Wyoming, we are ready for another incredible day as we head to Buffalo, Wyoming and the TA Ranch.

Wide open prairie--so different from what I'm used to
Here we are in the Great Plains.
Wyoming is unique.  It ranks 50th in population with a 2016 population of only 585, 501 people.  Crossing the state, we pass through towns with double digit and even single digit populations.  Once a car leaves the main highway, it is more than likely to do the rest of its travels on unpaved roads that traverse open prairies and hills.  Yet Wyoming is not bleak; it’s beautiful.  Along the road I see large quantities of shrubbery, and it hits me that this is sagebrush.  The word conjures up all the cowboy movies and shows I’ve seen, and it reminds me of Rob’s and my cross country drive years ago when we saw signs out west that read, “Do not drive into smoke.”  Sagebrush fires. 

Because we pass through towns near major tourist attractions, the towns are geared to satisfy the whims of out-of-staters—restaurants, gift shops, local attractions, tours, etc.  There is a tawdry atmosphere, but that’s not unusual around any tourist attractions.  It just is a bit shocking as we drive through open country that must look similar to the way it looked 100 years ago and then pass a few blocks of charmless tourist lures.

Visitors come to Wyoming for great and beautiful reasons. Most of Yellowstone Park is in Wyoming, and in 2014, 10.1 million visitors came to Wyoming.  That’s probably the biggest reason. This year, with the solar eclipse, that alone was predicted to double the state’s population.  The ranches, mountains, rivers, rodeos, and peacefulness are all part of the allure. As I said—unique.

This day we head to Johnson County and the city of Buffalo, Wyoming , once considered  “a rogue society in which rustlers controlled everything— politics, courts and juries.”     If you’re a movie fan, you know about the Johnson County War that might be the biggest piece of Wyoming history. You know it from Shane and The Virginian.  The biggest event of this war occurred right where we head, The TA Ranch.  We think we are going to have a great day at the ranch, riding, seeing some exhibitions of horse mastery, and cowboy cattle work, but as has been the way of this Tauck tour, it goes beyond expectations.

We arrive just in time for a buffet lunch, and I ask if anything is local.  That’s what I choose—beef—right from their ranch, I think. This is a working cattle ranch.  Since everything is locally sourced, that’s exactly what I want.  And it’s delicious.

Then surprisingly we are treated by Barbara, who runs the ranch with her daughter Kristen Giles, to a brief but intriguing introduction to the TA Ranch and its history, including tales of the Johnson County War.  This is the ranch which the cattle barons occupied for three days and where the shoot out occurred.  It’s an exciting story.  Barbara even offered books about this part of Wyoming history, including this one.



I will list other books at the end of this post. It's a very interesting piece of western history.

Then off to take a trail ride.  I love horses, and though this is a slow, easy ride, it is wonderful to ride and happily breathe in the beautiful scent of the horse against the clean, distinctive, hot aroma of the prairie.  Riding further gives us the sense of the land's openness as well as views of the hay bales that are part of the necessary preparations on a working cattle ranch for the brutal Wyoming winter. I feel a further amazed appreciation for the individuality and perseverance of the homesteaders who crossed much of the county to come out here and make Wyoming their home.

This is my horse, Hercules.  But looking out at the landscape is spectacular.
 
Taking a selfie on Hercules was a challenge, but fun.  Rob is wearing the blue cap.
But look at that landscape.
Preparations for the harsh winter are well under way.
Cattle must be fed.
When we finish our ride, off we go to a corral where we meet a horse whisperer, a trainer who works with the horses and teaches them to obey commands she signals without even touching them.  Her demonstration is quite interesting.  She rides her own beautiful brown horse with the loveliest lines and neck while a black horse with a dashing white streak down his face walks, trots, canters, and reverses, all by her direction but not by her touching in any way.


Isn't her horse beautiful?
They never got closer than this!

Our demonstration is cut short because it is so brutally hot, and Barbara transports us over to another corral where we are treated to a demonstration of cowboys separating cattle.

Four cowpokes (two men and two women) demonstrate cutting one, then two, then three and then four cattle from a group and bringing them to the far side of the corral.  Their horses follow their directions.  No words are spoken.  They act as one unit.


Because I love horses, I am fascinated by one cowboy whose horse’s bridle does not have a bit.  He  trained his horse, and all the horse has is a bitless noseband.  Yet he follows all directions and the horse and cowboy act as one.  It is thrilling to see.  In fact, the entire display of control and unity between horse and rider is thrilling to see. 


There is time to spend sitting in the shade of the porch before going in for drinks and a fine dinner, once again locally sourced.  Rob and I both choose the Wyoming Lamb Chop—pan seared topped with cherry balsamic chutney/creamy scalloped potatoes/grilled asparagus.  Salad and dessert, of course.  Not exactly what you picture as “ranch food.”  Well, the TA Ranch isn’t an ordinary place, and if you ever get a chance to come here, go for it!

We move on after dinner, heading for Sheridan, Wyoming to spend the night in a beautiful Holiday Inn.  We are in for a great surprise the next morning.

Here are some books Barbara suggested about the Johnson County War:  Banditti of the Plains by Asa Mercer (1893), War on Powder River by Helene Hunlington Smith (1950), The Cattlemen by Mari Sandog (1950), and Johnson County War by Bill O'Neal (2005)













Sunday, October 01, 2017

FRIDAY'S FOTO--BUFFALO, WYOMING'S TA RANCH

Blue skies, creeks, and one of the ranch houses out on the TA Ranch in Buffalo, Wyoming.
Open sky country. The Great Plains.  Great for raising cattle on this working ranch.
Peaceful now, but in 1892 the barn and ranch house were occupied by the Cattle Baron invaders
and a three-day shootout occurred during the Johnson County War, a fight
between the cattle barons and the small ranchers. It's a war you may be familiar with from
the movies Shane and The Virginian.

Friday, September 22, 2017

SOUTH DAKOTA'S MT. RUSHMORE & CRAZY HORSE MEMORIALS MAKE TRAVEL HISTORY



Mt. Rushmore, near Rapid City, South Dakota, is another site where seeing is believing.  It’s difficult to imagine any travel book about the United States without the iconic figures of the four presidents, George Washington, Thomas Jefferson, Theodore Roosevelt, and Abraham Lincoln sculpted in granite high above the Badlands in the Black Hills of South Dakota. 

There’s so much more to Mt. Rushmore than viewing, however, and it’s impossible to leave without a deep feeling of wonder, an appreciation for commitment, and an amazement at the detailed art and skill demonstrated in these sculptures.

The sculptor, Gutzon Borglum, may not have originated the idea of a massive sculpture on the site, but once involved, he convinced President Coolidge to give the go-ahead to depict these four presidents on Mt. Rushmore (see https://thirdagetraveler.blogspot.com/2017/09/bison-welcome-us-to-custer-state-park.html ).  According to the facts in the informative exhibits within the museum at Mt. Rushmore, they symbolize the principles of liberty and freedom upon which this country was founded.

George Washington represents the struggle for independence and the birth of the nation.

There is a steadfastness of character depicted in his countenance.
Notice the detail, too, in the clothing, especially around the chin and neck.


Thomas Jefferson represents the territorial expansion of the country.

His head seems tilted slightly upward, looking out into the future across the land.


Abraham Lincoln represents the permanent union of the States and equality for all citizens.

I notice his furrowed brow and the look of sadness in his eyes, perhaps at the tasks he faced.
I am so moved by the details of his beard as well as the lines and hollows of his cheeks.
Teddy Roosevelt represents the 20th century role of the United States and the rights of the common man.

The eyes are captivating.
The details of his moustache and the pince-nez are there just as they appear in his photographs.
It's hard to imagine chiseling the details of that face on this wall of granite.

When you combine the symbolism with the history, Mt. Rushmore becomes even more impressive, almost prophetic and certainly a reach toward the American Dream. It was government funded, begun in 1927 and completed in 1941, shortly, sadly, after Borglum died earlier that same year.  He had been working with his son, Lincoln (a wonderful name for the son of the man who designed this sculpture, don’t you think?), and Lincoln Borglum completed it.  A crew of over 400 men worked on it.  For the most part they were miners who had come to the Black Hills in search of gold and in search of the American Dream.  Most of the work was completed during The Great Depression when it was hard to picture that American dream.  But the dream of this sculpture never died, despite funding problems and changes along the way. 

To add some perspective, each face is 60 feet high, the height of a six story building.  Imagine, then, the approach to the Grand View Terrace as visitors pass under arches and then an array of flags where all fifty states, three territories, and two commonwealths of the United States are represented.

At this point there is still a distance to go when you consider the number of flags.
Then more arches and then a terrace where you can gaze up at the memorial.
Being there, you realize the scope of this incredible work of art.
If visitors wish, they may take the Presidential Trail, a .05 mile trail with 422 stairs to get up close and personal.  UP might be the operative word here.

On the grounds is a museum and other exhibits that give additional information about Borglum’s original and more developed plans for Mt. Rushmore.  All in all, it is a complete experience truly worthy of its reputation as one of the premier sites in America.  

These days there is yearly maintenance by mountain climbers who work to seal cracks that develop.  Other cracks are monitored through a system of optical fiber cables.  Still, having been carved in granite, Mt. Rushmore will be here a very, very long time.

Mt. Rushmore isn't the only great sculpture we visit that day.  Not far away is the work-in-progress Crazy Horse Memorial, which, when finished will be the largest rock sculpture in the world.

I wish I could show you how incredibly far away we are at this point.
Pictures cannot accurately show the massive size of this sculpture.
For comparison, the face of each president on Mt. Rushmore is 60 feet high while the face of Crazy Horse is 87 feet, 6 inches high.  That part of the sculpture was completed in 1998. Think massive.

Look at those vehicles.
Matchbox cars???
The entire carving, when completed, will be 641 feet long and 563 feet high.  It’s hard to envision it even when we stand on the balcony by the restaurant and try to picture what the finished carving will be.  And we hazard guesses about when it will finished.

When you consider that this model is 1/34th the size of the actual carving,
and when you look at that tourist,
 you can imagine how huge the Crazy Horse Monument will be.
The sculpture’s creator, Korczak Ziokowski, actually worked on Mt. Rushmore for about 19 days, and different stories surround his leaving depending on which website you visit.  Nevertheless, he built a house at the base; he and his wife raised 10 children there; some and their children and relatives still at work on the project.  Ziokowski was brought to the area by an Oglala Lakota Chief, Henry Standing Bear to create a monument to honor Crazy Horse after the government refused to add Crazy Horse to Mt. Rushmore, a request prompted because Mt. Rushmore is on ancient tribal land.

Funding is through the Crazy Horse Memorial Foundation, and no government money is accepted.

Over the years, there has been a great deal of controversy over the Monument, but none takes away from the awesome size, the history, the people involved, or the expectations of many when they see Crazy Horse from afar.  It’s quite an experience.  One I shall never forget.

 For more information for your visit, you might check out this site: https://www.visitrapidcity.com/mount-rushmore