South Dakota with its natural and man-made wonders gives me
quite a few awe-inspiring moments but does not seem to daunt Tauck Tours. They are ready to WOW us again. Leaving South Dakota
for Wyoming , we are ready for another
incredible day as we head to Buffalo , Wyoming
and the TA Ranch.
Wide open prairie--so different from what I'm used to Here we are in the Great Plains. |
Because we pass through towns near major tourist
attractions, the towns are geared to satisfy the whims of
out-of-staters—restaurants, gift shops, local attractions, tours, etc. There is a tawdry atmosphere, but that’s not
unusual around any tourist attractions.
It just is a bit shocking as we drive through open country that must
look similar to the way it looked 100 years ago and then pass a few blocks of
charmless tourist lures.
Visitors come to Wyoming
for great and beautiful reasons. Most of Yellowstone
Park is in Wyoming ,
and in 2014, 10.1 million visitors came to Wyoming . That’s probably the biggest reason. This
year, with the solar eclipse, that alone was predicted to double the state’s population. The ranches, mountains, rivers, rodeos, and
peacefulness are all part of the allure. As I said—unique.
This day we head to Johnson
County and the city of Buffalo, Wyoming ,
once considered “a rogue society in which rustlers controlled everything— politics,
courts and juries.” If you’re a
movie fan, you know about the Johnson County War that might be the biggest
piece of Wyoming history. You know it from Shane and The
Virginian. The biggest event of
this war occurred right where we head, The
TA Ranch. We think we are going to
have a great day at the ranch, riding, seeing some exhibitions of horse
mastery, and cowboy cattle work, but as has been the way of this Tauck tour, it
goes beyond expectations.
We arrive just in time for a
buffet lunch, and I ask if anything is local.
That’s what I choose—beef—right from their ranch, I think. This is a
working cattle ranch. Since everything
is locally sourced, that’s exactly what I want.
And it’s delicious.
Then surprisingly we are
treated by Barbara, who runs the ranch with her daughter Kristen Giles, to a
brief but intriguing introduction to the TA Ranch and its history, including
tales of the Johnson County War. This is the
ranch which the cattle barons occupied for three days and where the shoot out
occurred. It’s an exciting story. Barbara even offered books about this part of
Wyoming history, including this one.
I will list other books at
the end of this post. It's a very interesting piece of western history.
Then off to take a trail
ride. I love horses, and though this is a slow, easy ride, it is wonderful to ride and happily breathe in the
beautiful scent of the horse against the clean, distinctive, hot aroma of the
prairie. Riding further gives us the
sense of the land's openness as well as views of the hay bales that are part of the necessary preparations on a working cattle ranch for the brutal Wyoming winter. I feel a further amazed appreciation for the
individuality and perseverance of the homesteaders who crossed much of the county to come out here and make Wyoming their home.
This is my horse, Hercules. But looking out at the landscape is spectacular. |
Taking a selfie on Hercules was a challenge, but fun. Rob is wearing the blue cap. But look at that landscape. |
Preparations for the harsh winter are well under way. Cattle must be fed. |
Our demonstration is cut
short because it is so brutally hot, and Barbara transports us over to another
corral where we are treated to a demonstration of cowboys separating cattle.
Four cowpokes (two men and two
women) demonstrate cutting one, then two, then three and then four cattle from
a group and bringing them to the far side of the corral. Their horses follow their directions. No words are spoken. They act as one unit.
Because I love horses, I am
fascinated by one cowboy whose horse’s bridle does not have a bit. He trained his horse, and all the horse
has is a bitless noseband. Yet he follows
all directions and the horse and cowboy act as one. It is thrilling to see. In fact, the entire display of control and unity
between horse and rider is thrilling to see.
There is time to spend
sitting in the shade of the porch before going in for drinks and a fine dinner,
once again locally sourced. Rob and I
both choose the Wyoming Lamb Chop—pan seared topped with cherry balsamic
chutney/creamy scalloped potatoes/grilled asparagus. Salad and dessert, of course. Not exactly what you picture as “ranch
food.” Well, the TA Ranch isn’t an
ordinary place, and if you ever get a chance to come here, go for it!
We move on after dinner,
heading for Sheridan , Wyoming to spend the night in a beautiful Holiday Inn. We are in for a great surprise the next
morning.
Here are some books Barbara suggested about the Johnson County War: Banditti of the Plains by Asa Mercer (1893), War on Powder River by Helene Hunlington Smith (1950), The Cattlemen by Mari Sandog (1950), and Johnson County War by Bill O'Neal (2005)
Here are some books Barbara suggested about the Johnson County War: Banditti of the Plains by Asa Mercer (1893), War on Powder River by Helene Hunlington Smith (1950), The Cattlemen by Mari Sandog (1950), and Johnson County War by Bill O'Neal (2005)
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