In the same State
Game Lodge where we headed, President Calvin Coolidge once made the
Summer White House. So impressed by his
surroundings, so moved by his forays into nature, the fishing he enjoyed, and
the hiking that occupied his time, before Coolidge left the sculptor Gutzon
Borglum was able to convince him to set aside
Mt. Rushmore. The President was overwhelmed by nature.
The State Game Lodge in Custer State Park, South Dakota was used by President Calvin Coolidge as the Summer White House in 1927. A summer here convinced him to go ahead with the plans for Mt. Rushmore. |
The State Game Lodge is a dark stained, wooden hotel propped
against the side of a hill overlooking the main road. Clean and welcoming but with small rooms, an
absence of television, spotty wifi, and no air-conditioning, it is still a
great place to begin our Tauck tour entitled “Legends of the American West.”
In the bar, the stone fireplace is a certified National
Treasure. Above the mantle hangs a
portrait of President Dwight D. Eisenhower who also used this lodge. We walked where giants walked.
Our inaugural meal in South Dakota ,
bison stew. Of course! It was delicious!
Despite its rusticity, the State Game Lodge is popular with
tourists like me, so if you are interested, book early; it’s in high demand.
At 71,000 acres, Custer State Park is among the largest
state parks in the United States, showcasing nature’s unending variety of
lakes, fast-moving creeks, plains, mountains, and granite spires known as The Needles which brave and expert climbers scale to
view the majestic scenes below and out across seemingly endless valleys.
For me, above all, is that Custer is home to a herd of
bison, the descendants of the barely few left after the wanton slaughter of the
millions that once roamed the vast plains of the mid west. To see them in their natural habitat where
we, the interlopers, have the honor to view them, is breathtaking.
We thought our introduction to bison and the other animals
in the park would come the following day on a Buffalo Safari, but on the day we
arrived, Rob and I followed Creekside Trail and walked the ¾ mile from the
State Game Lodge to the Custer
State Park Visitor Center, a lovely curving path over a creek, through
the shade of trees, past a campground and children’s playground, through
cattle-guard fences, and over some wooden walkways.
Almost to the Center, we stopped short. Lazily ambling toward us was a herd of bison.
We were dumbstruck!
Delighted! Exuberant! The bison?
Totally unabashed by human presence, they stopped to feed on the grass
and moseyed their way down to the creek for a drink.
How did we feel????
THIS WAS NOT A TOUR. Rangers came
over to warn people to stay back. These
are animals in the wild. These 2,000
pound mammals, the largest mammals in North America ,
brook no disturbance, and they can be dangerous. Don’t be deceived by their sleepy-eyed
demeanor.
We spend nearly half an hour observing and photographing
them, and then wistfully tear ourselves away and leave them to other observers.
Magnificent Seeing them in their natural surroundings made me sad to think that they were so close to extinction. The parks brought them back for us and for posterity. |
Time for the Visitor
Center and some more understanding.
Pictures and information abound, and there is a 25 minute film narrated by
Kevin Costner about the different faces of Custer
State Park and the different ways
in which visitors can recreate.
Much, but not all, is dedicated to the bison, the annual
roundup where they are counted, tagging some for study, tallying the way they
have multiplied and thrived over the years, and continuing the work to learn
more about them as well as about other park inhabitants like the pronghorn
antelope (that really is more closely related to a giraffe than to an
antelope).
It’s a modern Visitor
Center welcoming to people with
disabilities. In my case, their device
gives me closed caption of the movie’s narration. This is a first for me, and it works beautifully.
It may have been the first day, but already it is a great
vacation. This is just the beginning.
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