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Sunday, February 14, 2010

FANNIE FLAGG'S A REDBIRD CHRISTMAS



I remember when Fannie Flagg was a stand-up comedian—a flaming red head with a thick southern drawl and a passel of funny jokes. Then came Flagg’s novel, Fried Green Tomatoes at the Whistle Stop CafĂ© and the hit movie version. Flagg’s talents also lay in writing. I thoroughly enjoyed another Fannie Flagg novel, Can’t Wait to Get to Heaven with its upbeat outlook on life (http://thirdagetraveler.blogspot.com/2006/12/cant-wait-to-get-to-heaven-hellava-book.html), so when I spotted A Redbird Christmas, the bookstore racked up another sale.

Fannie Flagg’s A Redbird Christmas is a wonderful feel-good book. It is filled with her signature quirky characters living in a small-town southern setting. She skillfully describes Lost River bringing the reader right into this out of the way community. Before long I knew its history and its inhabitants. They have real longings and real problems. They may be idiosyncratic, but I became involved with them and wanted to find out what happens to them. Flagg involves her readers, and her books are the curl-up-and-read-in-one-sitting kind.

Her main character, Oswald T. Campbell is a sympathy-invoking soul alone in Chicago’s wintery cold and snow when he receives a sad diagnosis from his doctor. He is dying, and in order to extend his life as long as possible, he must leave the Chicago climate in favor of someplace warm. Through a peculiar turn of events, including his seriously short supply of money, Oswald ends up in Lost River where, although be tries to avoid it, he cannot avoid becoming part of the community. In a small town where there is a real shortage of eligible bachelors and an abundance of single ladies, Oswald is drawn into the social life. He soon meets the central figure in this tale, a redbird named Jack, owned by Roy, the local grocer. Jack somehow draws the community closer and affects many of Lost River’s inhabitants, including Oswald.

One wonders whether life is filled with a series of coincidences that twist and turn us until we find our destinies. That is a question Flagg often raises in her books. Whether you believe in these convenient coincidences or not, you can’t help but come away with the feeling that going through life with one’s eyes open to new possibilities cannot help but make new possibilities appear. That’s a very positive message. I believe it’s true.

A Redbird Christmas is charming. I read it with a smile. I read it right after the Christmas season, and I suppose it might be described as a Christmas tale. But Fannie Flagg’s book, a New York Times bestseller, will charm a reader regardless of season.

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Tuesday, February 09, 2010

DENALI HIGHWAY--SHOULD BE A RIDE IN DISNEYLAND







Alaskan travel brings daily adventure. Today’s full-day journey along the Denali Highway conjures up tremors of expectation. The entire route promises outstanding opportunities for scenic views of the Alaska Range, boreal vegetation, glacial features and wildlife—caribou, moose, fox, ptarmigan, trumpeter swan and other waterfowl. BUT this 135 mile highway, open only from mid-May to October 1, is one of just 13 highways in the state. Denali Highway is paved for only the first 21 miles. The remaining 114 miles is a primitive mixture of dirt and gravel, and that description is quite kind. It is a rocking back and forth, jaw-cracking, laughable and fun potholed ride that comes with distinct warnings in the form of a Bureau of Land Management Recreation Guide:
  1. Don’t attempt to travel from Oct 1 through May; snowdrifts may block your way.
  2. The maximum recommended speed on gravel is 30 mph. Slow down when passing another vehicle.
  3. Make sure your car is in good condition. Check your spare tire and make sure you carry a lug wrench.
  4. Carry extra water and sufficient food for an emergency situation. You cannot predict how long it will take to get help if you become stranded.

Where else do you see road signs like these? Yes, that does say "Dog Team Xing." I add for the sake of fairness, the state of Alaska cannot pave this road because the heaving atop the permafrost makes it impossible. Truly this is another world. So with booklet in hand, a hopefully carefully maintained coach from Princess, and faith in our driver and excellent tour narrator, J.J., we embark. J.J. has us play a game. We will count every vehicle we see on this journey. I’ll tell you the number at the end of this post.

(look at the road in this photo)

Our heavy coach crosses the Susitna River driving over a 1.326 foot wooden bridge made of black spruce.
At some points we drive over eskers which are ridges of silt, sand, gravel and cobbles carried and deposited by streams flowing within a glacier. When the glacier melts away, these deposits are left as mounds. Amazing! We stop for lunch in the McClaren Lodge, (follow this link to their website) mile 42 on the Denali Highway, a thriving blip on the map named after the McClaren Glacier, 16 miles north.


Beneath the mountains, the flowing patch of white is the glacier. The McClaren River is the result.

I’ve already shared the winter road conditions with you, but in true Alaskan spirit, the owner of this wonderful and very charming inn is a young couple who live here 12 months a year with their baby. There's the pioneering spirit alive and thriving. Their phone bill begins at $600.00 a month because there’s no cell service. They apologize for the prices on their menu, but it is incredibly expensive to get supplies to them. Just sayin’ We dine on a hearty chili, a delicious soup, a thick, dense bread (all the bread up here is thick and dense; I guess it’s left over from the hearty sourdough breads). Our cutlery is plastic and our dinnerware courtesy of "Solo." It's fine with us and it somehow fits with the warm, homey atmosphere that is the McClaren Lodge. I imagine how wonderful this must be for some snowmachiner or dog musher, the only passerbys in the winter, here on a dark, snowy night becoming part of the family, sharing the stew and watching one of the dvds. Then he'd delight as we did in a nice slice of McClaren berry pie, a combo of strawberry, rhubarb, apples, raspberry and blackberry. Pretty darned good!

Back on the road we pass kettle lakes. These are small lakes and depressions formed when chunks of ice broke off retreating glaciers and were buried in the glacial debris. The ice eventually melted leaving circular-shaped depressions called kettles. Nature has a way of making even debris into things of beauty. The Denali Highway ends at Paxton, a town founded in 1906 and now boasting a population of 43. We make a pit/snack stop in the Paxton lodge before heading down the Richardson Highway to our destination, the Copper River Princess Lodge. Paxton Lodge Artistic Humor

J.J. shares a factoid I shall never forget as he points to a road sign. Alaskans are so independent and so hate government intervention that road signs are shot full of bullet holes! There’s an Alaskan joke that the least safe place in Alaska is behind a “No Hunting” sign! Ha Ha. I try to get a photo, but we are moving too quickly; yes, this road is paved. But J.J. is 100% correct.

Here’s the vehicle tally. On the entire 135 mile stretch, we see a total of 34 cars/trucks/campers. It’s still tourist season, so this is a busy day! J.J. says we’d had a good day. I am surprised Disney hasn’t invented a Denali Highway ride, complete with bumps, water, and animals. It would really be something else!

My daily conclusion remains the same. What a wonderful, beautiful, and diverse country we are! It brings tears to my eyes to see this beauty and to experience this state.

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Wednesday, January 27, 2010

A DAY IN DENALI IMPRINTS A MEMORY FOR A LIFETIME

As morning breaks each day in Alaska I know something marvelous awaits me around the next bend. On our Day of Denali—I must think of it as a proper noun—I enter the grandest National Park, six million acres and bigger than the state of Massachusetts! It is the site of North America’s highest peak. At 20,320 feet, it is “Denali” which means “the high one” in the Athabascan language. If measured from their bases, Denali is higher than Mt. Everest. Most people know Denali as Mt. McKinley, but once I see it, I know it will always be Denali.

Denali National Park is another wonder of our National Park Service. Cars are only allowed to mile 14 within Denali National Park, and by limiting the number of visitors and vehicles, care is taken that the environment is not over-used. Park-run shuttle busses move people from site to site. Visitors can also take tour busses to travel the 90 mile road—one road, a turnaround, and the same road out. This is wilderness. This is an area predominately trail-less too, and the joke is that once you are out there on foot, you become part of the food chain. I like our tour bus and the narrated tour. It is awesome to see the animals in their natural habitat.

Our guide, Dana, is another wonderful example of the Alaskan. She studied archeology at the University of Wisconsin and came to Alaska in the 70s on a summer dig. Smitten, she went home just long enough to pack her bags. She never looked back. As a guide, her knowledge of the area is formidable, and her evident concern for the varying ecosystems is palpable as she explains the web that bonds the vast variety of nature together. It’s a wonderful verbal tour of the ebb and flow of nature with its natural corrections.

One important rule on the bus—no loud talking. Animals should not become accustomed to human voices because they will stay too close to humans, like backpackers in the wilderness. Remember that food chain joke. On the other hand, if you hike in the wilderness, do talk or whistle as you go. The last thing you want to do is to startle a bear. It’s not really contradictory. In this case, familiarity breeds danger.

Surely Denali is another world. As we enter the park, my world morphs into a watercolor landscape with reds, greens, browns and whites flowing like waves toward the inevitable mountains. The climate stunts vegetation growth; here things grow slowly, and the result is low, melding textures and hues.

Berries are a staple, for the people as well as for the animals, and we see animals foraging in the distance, swimming among the waves, their bodies appearing and disappearing.

We see incredible wildlife. Everyone in the bus watches and we let each other know. Our driver tries to stop so we can photograph through the windows. There are caribou, bear, prairie dogs, eagles, and moose. I’ve been dying to see a moose since we arrived. What I did see in Denali are moose rear ends! Pooh!

These are Dall Sheep high up on the tundra.


The day, crisply clear, allows Denali to lose her cloud cover and reveal herself in all her breathtaking glory. Seeing her for the first time, seeing the North and South slopes from this angle and realizing how fortunate we are to be in this place at this time creates emotions I will never forget. It is truly spiritual.


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Wednesday, January 20, 2010

TEMPTATION IN CANCUN--A GREAT RESPITE FROM WINTER

I love Cancun. Don't come here expecting to be seeped in Mexican history and culture; for that you travel as we did last year to places like Chichen Itza where you'll stare in wonder at the magnificence of the Mayan culture. Cancun, on the other hand, was created specifically to draw tourists, and it does so successfully. Come here for the vitality, friendliness, fun, sun, sand, and Caribbean Sea. Visit El Centro for its shopping, Corrida del Toros (once was enough for me), Mercado 28 and good Mexican restaurants, but remember that this city is a result of hotel building.

Last year Rob and I stayed two weeks outside The Hotel Zone, a fifteen mile strip along a gorgeous beachfront lined with hotels, clubs, shops, places to begin tours to other parts of Mexico. We stayed in a sister hotel to the Temptation Resort and Spa where we are this year. It was much quieter last year in the family-oriented Blue Bay Club. http://thirdagetraveler.blogspot.com/2009/03/mexico-and-time-in-cancun.html. We took day trips, snorkeled, sailed, and had our son and our friends join us in our suite. We enjoyed ourselves so much we bought another timeshare—from Premier by Original. Unlike the Blue Bay Club, Temptation is adults only. Twenty-one and over. There's a vivaciousness and tone geared to adults, and we find it a welcome change. Because we are only here for a week, our plans are different, and we are looking for the action and atmosphere of this resort.

Temptation Resort and Spa's décor is red and white, and we like the fresh feeling of it all.

Place these colors against a backdrop of green palms, three blue pools--a fun pool, a sports pool, and a quiet pool, and the sparkling aquas of the Caribbean, and we feel just fine. Our room is charming with a balcony overlooking, to the left the marina with its complement of incredible boats including the one we are entitled as owners to use during our stay, to the center the beach and sea, and to the right the big “fun” pool with swim-bar. Although the hotel is completely booked, it is run so smoothly that there is never a crowded feeling.

During the day there's action and music on shore and views of parasailors, windsurfers, hobycat sailors, and of many other water activities. The music at the fun pool is loud, happy, and spans decades and music styles. It begins early, but then it is New Age morning music. It changes throughout the day, and it's great. Early mornings bring glorious sunrises, and evenings bring the lights of Isla Mujeres out in the distance and lights of two dinner cruise galleons from farther down in the Hotel Zone.

As owners we are treated as royalty with our own VIP room and “butler,” Alberto who makes arrangements for us, particularly advance reservations in one of the four excellent specialty restaurants: Asian, Italian, Tex-Mex, and Seafood. Other perks we receive are free wifi, lovely bathrobes, “premier” menus at the restaurants in addition to the regular menu, higher quality liquor, Bacardi Anejo for example. At the beach there is a “Members Only” section where a separate bar and chaises are set up. This is not to suggest that regular hotel guests are treated badly. Indeed, looking around I see nothing but happy faces.

Escaping the frigid temperatures at home this January, we arrive to find our room's thermostat set to 65°. That's where we keep the temperature at home which my son describes as a “meat locker.” We raise the thermostat to 68°. Unlike last year when we did a lot of sightseeing, we intend this week to be a beach escape with snorkeling in a cenote as our only day trip. We already know we'll be back. From Temptation we can sail HobyCats to our hearts' delight, and that means every day possible.

Our routine is simple. After breakfast we walk along the jogging/walking path on the hotel zone or use the hotel's gym. The gym is nicely equipped, and its floor-to-ceiling windows overlook the sports pool. In addition to the usual accoutrements, there are bowls of fresh fruit. We spend the rest of the day at the beach. We keep the bartender/waiter busy preferring lunch here although we sometimes tear ourselves away for El Embarcadero for the luncheon buffet.

It is winter here, and the sun disappears behind the hotel sometime around 3 PM, so we have time to shower and change before heading to Paty O's to begin the evening activities.

We try each of the specialty restaurants, and each is superb. I cannot show you photos because they are beautifully but dimly lighted. The décor is lovely and in keeping with the food. Service is exceptional. What I especially appreciated is the high ceilings and the noise absorbing décor. I hate the bare walled, techno style with nothing on either wall or window to absorb sound. At Temptation, the ambient noise did not prevent soft conversation, something dearly missing from most restaurants today.

We are so relaxed we decide to forgo the cenotes this year and spend some more time in the spa becoming even more relaxed with massages! The concierge helps me find a tour where we can snorkel in three different ecosystems, and that sounds grand. If we come back here next year, I’ll keep that in mind, but we might head to Cabo where there is another Temptation. That’s mighty tempting.
One more thing: I'm a sucker for towel sculptures, and our chambermaid was an artist.


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THE GIRL WITH THE DRAGON TATOO


Stieg Larsson's The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo puts me in a peculiar position; two of my best friends, avid and intelligent readers highly recommend it. My brother-in-law who travels with his Kindle close to his heart so he can grab every available minute to read gives this novel, a national best seller, rave reviews. Yet another friend, a voracious reader, disliked it enough to give up early in the book. I did not get involved with the book until I was almost halfway through, and while I decided to stick with it only to find the crime's solution, I am now debating whether to weather the second book in the trilogy Larsson left us after his death simply to learn more about one of the characters. My reaction is not close to any of my friends'. If anything, it is surprisingly close to the New York Times Book Review's.

The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo is a crime novel that had the potential to wow any fan of this genre. The crime exposes the underbelly of depravity in an essentially misogynistic society. Larsson's plots make strange bedfellows of some very unusual characters. I mean that both figuratively and literally. The novel centers around a dishonored journalist hired by the octegenarian head of a corporate dynasty to solve a 40 year old murder mystery. In his search for the murderer, Blomkvist teams up with a strange young woman, Lisbeth Salander, whose unfinished story intertwines with Blomkvist’s life as well as with his sleuthing. Other characters appear, and as a reader I expected them to forward the plot, but in most cases I landed dissatisfied in blind alleys. The denouement should tie up the loose ends. I need not be happy with the knots, but I should not be left hanging.

The potential is enormous, but I don't think Larsson even comes close. What he needed was a brave editor with a red Sharpie. Of the 590 pages, I'm sure more than 100 pages could be cut. The background of Blomkvist's legal troubles is, for the most part, extraneous except to explain why Henrik Vanger chose to hire him. Some of Blomkvist's other relationships do not forward the plot nor do they significantly allow us insight into Blomkvist's character. Some of his motivation is vague, and the book's ending is weak because we cannot understand his actions. I like to visualize the character, but I could never pick out Blomkvist in a crowd.

I got to know Lisbeth Salander a bit better, though she, too, was unsatisfactorily developed. At least I could see her physically. She develops as a strange, violent, iconoclastic, genius whose photographic memory allows her to do things way beyond her years and experience. So much about her is unknown, but that is not my only major problem. Her dialogue is so out of character. On some occasions she speaks as one would imagine, but for the most part, she speaks no differently from Blomkvist. It just doesn't work for me.

On the other hand, this crime novel is intriguing and unique. Was I unhappy that I plodded through The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo? No. Lisbeth Salander is incredibly intriguing. As she develops, I wished the book were entirely about her. I wish it so strongly that I am tempted to read Larsson's second book because she remains a character along with Blomkvist.

Why include this review in Third Age Traveler? My unfailing respect for my friends mean that avid readers can love this book. So you might want to give it a try.

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